Tag Archives: schofield

Pinion – Bronze Trend Leader

After seeing Pinion watches at Salon QP and a couple of Pinion “get togethers” I finally took the bait and ordered my Pinion Pure Bronze, which after I ordering Piers Berry, the founder, suggested I have the watch fitted with a green dial that until then had been mainly used in the gunmetal case. At the time there were very few watches available with bronze case and I was only aware of the fellow British brand Schofield, which I don’t remember being available with a green dial.

Pure Bronze

It is now 2023, this watch is my regular weekend/holiday watch. It is robust, has 100m water resistance, is a strap monster and has an appearance that improves with age.

Somewhat disappointingly its look is no longer as unique as in 2016. There is hardly a significant watch brand that does not have, or has not recently offered, a bronze model in their range and green appears to be the dial colour of the year. The obvious exception being Rolex. Both Tudor, Oris and now Christopher Ward notably going full bronze offering not only bronze cases but also bronze cases with bronze bracelets, which however much I personally like the material, I find a little too much. Of the major Swiss brands I am very tempted by the bronze Omega Seamaster 300 which nicely combines a retro look with a case that will patina.

However this is blog about British watch brands so what are the alternatives this side of the channel?

Bremont offer their British military approved Broadsword and Argonaut with a bronze cases

Bremont Argonaut
Bremont Broadsword

Christopher Ward,

On checking the Christopher Ward website I find three of their C65 range are available in bronze, the Dune, even with a bronze bracelet, the Acquataine and Sandhurst. The dive watch stalwart of the CW range, the C60, is also available though only with a blue dial.

C65 Dune on bronze bracelet

Schofield

As mentioned in my initial paragraph in my mind Schofield are the other original bronze watch producer and an updated version of their Bronze Beater, the B3 is still in the range. You can choose between a “raw” or “patinated” versions.

Beater – Raw
Beater – patinated

The patinated version looks great straight out the box, through in my mind one of the attractions of bronze is the development of a unique patina so given a choice I would probably go for the raw version.

Sadly, Pinion the pioneer of the sector, do not have a bronze case in their range, though this might be down to the company now specialising on smaller commissioned runs.

The good news though is that bronze cased watches are still cool and generally attract more attention than their steel equivalents. The even better news is the watches on offer from the British brands are at relatively affordable prices ranging from £985 for the Christopher Ward C60 to £3495 for the Bremont Argonaut. Not a huge amount to be distinctive. All of these watches can be found on their respective websites:

Bremont – https://www.bremont.com/products/bronze-argonaut-black

Christopher Ward – https://www.christopherward.com/

Schofield – https://schofieldwatchcompany.com/

Finally, lets recognise the Pinion Pure Bronze Green as being the watch that started the Bronze/Green trend.

Schofield – Treasure

Schofield in my mind are watches that do not go unnoticed, they are large purposeful pieces that generally would not be considered “dress” watches.

The case design and height not making them ideal to slip under a shirt cuff. The case materials add to their almost industrial no nonsense appeal. So I was very surprised when these watches appeared on one of Giles Ellis’s “Six Pips” newletter. These are not the Schofields we are used to.

The Treasure Watch has a stepped black dial and brushed gold handset but two different cases, one fully polished steel, the other is thick gold-plated brass. Gold and silver treasure! The case back shows an X marks the spot, runic script, mountains, rivers and the sky above. Each watch is serialised with the name of a treasure hoard found in the UK. Number 1 is Sutton Hoo, number 2 the Ringlemere Cup and 27 others making a limited edition of 29 watches

Two metal variants, both highly polished, one in stainless steel and the second a heavy gold-plate over a brass body. Using brass for the gold-plated version visually protects the watch. Both cases have matching strap bars and buckles. The gold X on the case back is formed by bonding a gold-plated brass disc (gold coin) behind the wire-eroded aperture in the multi-stepped stainless steel part. One of our most elaborate designs yet. DIAL Schofield favours dials that have a clean layout, the Treasure Watch is no exception, it is open and uncluttered and designed for legibility, it features our slash-zero at 12 o’clock and a stepped dial first seen on the Signalman. We have also included a printed luminescent ring around the outer circumference similar to the original Schofield Blacklamp. Using Super-LumiNova C3 with a green emission. These black dials offer high night-time visibility. The handset features a play on the original Sign-of-Life hand found on some Beater models, here it is a counter poise only, indicating time is passing but without the need for to the second time-telling. Here Schofield use the same luminescent compound but with a blue emission making things a little more interesting. The hands are brushed gold and match the gold ring in the middle of the crown. Gold and silver treasure through-out. INSIDE The Treasure Watch is powered with a fully gold-plated Automatic ETA 2824, the movement holder is an overbuilt gold anodised aluminium ring.

Priced at £3480 for either the gold or silver version. These watches are certainly not for shy and retiring people.

For more details visit https://schofieldwatchcompany.com/product/gold-treasure-watch/

Woollen Straps

For sometime Schofield watches have offered a variety of custom straps to make their watches even more individual. As well as the more conventional leather straps they offer several woollen straps.

Some Woollen options from Schofield

When these first appeared I mentally put them in the “Schofield eccentricity” box, that charactises the brand. I could not image anyone else following their lead.

Then last month, low and behold the slightly less eccentric more classic British brand Fears announce a range of their own woollen straps in collaboration with Romney Marsh Wools. As you can see from the opening picture of this post they look very distinctive rather than eccentric.

More information is available at the Fears website.

These straps fit the 20mm lugs of Fears watches but there is nothing to stop you fitting to other watches, will this be the trend of the winter ?

Schofield Six Pips Podcast

I have just dedicated two evenings to listening to the first and second episodes of the Schofield podcast – Six Pips.

Both episodes feature the “Principle Keeper” of Schofield watches, Giles Ellis in discussion with his colleague Harry.

The first episode covers at length Giles’ thought on design, at well over an hour it is pretty long but really fascinating, so much so that I immediately listened to the second episode the following evening.

In the second episode, which debatably should have been the first, Giles explains how and why he founded the Schofield watch company. Whilst doing so he gives great insight into what the brand is all about. We also gives some very useful pointers to anyone thinking of starting a watch company  thinking it is an easy way to make money ( a clue, it is not).

I always find, after listening to the personalities creating British watch brands, a great admiration for their passion. People like Giles really love what they are creating despite the numerous obstacles.

These podcasts are definitely worth listening to. Personally, I am really looking forward to the next episode.

 

Time4apint – British Watches

My posts have been a little infrequent of late. This is broadly as a consequence of real work, tax returns and another holiday.  To try and put this right and buy myself a little time to write my next review I thought I would share my latest horological discovery – the “time4apint”podcast. Chris Mann produces these charming little chats on what seems like a monthly basis. They are an excellent way to pass a little dead time waiting for trains and other idle moments.

In particular and the most pertinent to the British theme of this blog was podcast 39 that was published last week, entitled “Jonathan’s Modern British watches” in which Chris discusses with collector Jonathan Hughes some of his watches. A Schofield, a Pinion, a CWC and a Bremont.

You can listen to it yourself following this link :

Enjoy

Schofield Telemark – the first review

After several years of admiring the distinctive watches from Sussex’s most famous  watch company, I managed to exchange a few words with the founder Giles Ellis.  On an off chance, I asked if there might be the opportunity to do a review.
Just after the Christmas break an e-mail arrived out of the blue. Giles had remembered and asked if I would like to do the first review  of their new Telemark, a watch I had admired at its launch during the Salon QP week.

Schofield Telemark

 
The Telemark sits within the ‘Markers’ family of Schofield watches, which was originally pioneered by the Daymark. This model being inspired by the 1960s war film ‘Heroes of Telemark’. 

This watch has features common to previous watches however, the Telemark stands alone as a bold addition to the Markers collection. It is Schofield’s first white dialled watch, Schofield’s first fully numerated dial and even Schofield’s first design to be inspired by a coastline outside of the British Isles.

Before giving more details I think it is important to describe what this very particular watch is like to wear.

But before covering the watch I cannnot ignore the very impressive black Osmo Ash box, below. Though it does make you wonder whether someone with a collection of several watches can find space to store the increasingly large and impressive packaging.

The Telemark Box

After a lifetime of relatively regular sized watches I have recently got used to my slightly larger than my usual, Pinion. The  44mm Telemark takes my “large experience” to another level, especially the case height.
To my surprise once on my wrist it actually doesn’t feel that large and it is perfectly possible to almost not notice your wearing it and I didn’t even once risk bashing it on walls or furniture which I frequently do with my personal Speedmaster. The watches distinctive character though does not really come from it’s size but the design itself and the white dial in particular. The white/grey/brushed steel combination  does express a wintery “Telemark” vibe.

Telemark on the wrist

The first thing I did then was to put the watch to my ear, The dial does not mention automatic and I had not yet read the specifications, I wanted to understand wether it was an auto or manual. To my surprise I couldn’t hear the sound of a rotor inside the case. To be sure I then checked the spec sheet and discovered it was in fact an auto. I imagine the case thickness keeps the watch quiet.
Design wise there are some many details to be appreciated. The most obvious on my particular watch being the fucsia lining to the grey strap and the design of the caseback.

The reverse of the Telemark

Should this strap not be to your taste one of the wonderful features of the Schofield range is the wide choice of straps available making the watches even more individual. Then we shouldn’t forget the customised straps from Schofield+Cudd. I kept thinking this watch would be great on one of the Harris tweed straps, something I would never consider for any other watch I can think of.
Once turned  over the more design details become visible, for the first few days I continued to see something I had not noticed. For example the Schofield brand name being written very discretely in the number 6 position on the dial. There are so many little quirky features I will resist the temptation to list them but for me the dial hand combination works really well.
Then there is my favorite detail of all the crown and the groove in the case that makes it really easy to operate.

Schofield Telemark Crown

 The Technical Details Are:
  • Fully numerated submarine dial
  • Dimensions – 44mm diameter base, 42mm bezel, 15.1mm high
  • The word ‘Schofield’ replaces 9 minute marks on the chapter ring
  • The hour markers in the chapter ring are black anodised appliqués filled • with Super-LumiNova C5
  • Case – Vapour-blasted stainless steel
  • Weight – 134 grams with strap
  • Date disk reprinted for horizontal readability at 4:30
  • All the parts of the hands and the windows line up when overlapping
  • The second hand tapers towards the tip and the counterpoise
  • The second hand counterpoise is filled with lume
  • The case has a nail rebate for pulling out the crown
  • The crown also has a groove for your nails to grip to pull out
  • The case has a slight radius on the outer edge of the bezel
  • The box is Osmo ash, the queen of English timbers
  • Colour – Silver
  • Crown – Push in, machine finish stainless steel, engraved
  • Dial – White, luminescent applied markers Super-LumiNova C5
  • Hands – Laddered baton, Super-LumiNova C3
  • Movement – ETA 2824-2
  • Power reserve – 38 hours
  • Functions – Hours, minutes and seconds and date
  • Case back – Stainless steel, engraved with Jomfruland lighthouse
  • Crystal – Sapphire
  • Water resistance – 200m
  • Strap – Your choice
  • Strap bars – Stainless, vapour-blasted
  • Buckle – Brushed stainless steel, engraved
  • Serialisation – Sequential numbering
  • Warranty – 2 years

For more information and lots of really super images you should visit the Schofield website.

So in conclusion, I really enjoyed my time with the Telmark. The perfect location for a review would have been my February ski break, but I already had other horological commitments for that. At the same time I was really pleased to have the opportunity to write the first review which I did not want to postpone. Maybe I have another chance for next February.

My thanks to Melodie of Schofield for organising the logistics of this loan and for her cheery notes.

London Watch Week

I don’t think last week was officially know as “watch week” but that is how it turned out for me, a few events growing out of the Salon QP.

Although maybe “week” might not be quiet the right definition as for me everything started mid-October when I met Nicholas Bowman-Scargill for a catch-up. We had first met a year earlier, before he re-launched the Fears brand at the Salon QP 2016. Nicholas told me all about his first year and the three new watches he would be announcing at this years show.  He revealed these in order of significance. The first being an additional colour to the existing Redcliff range this time a pretty striking Passport Red.

Redcliff Passport Red

Next I was expecting a “mechanical Redcliff”, which seemed to be the obvious development. But no, the next watch Nicholas showed me was the quartz Redcliff Continental. The Continental version has a window just the “6” position enabling the wearer to display a second time zone. A very useful feature for international travellers or people with far flung families.

The Continental Range

Then came the news I had been expecting the Fears mechanical watch, not however as I was imagining a Redcliff but a completely new watch – the Brunswick the first mechanical watch for the new Fears.

The Brunswick concept & inspiration

At this time Nicholas was only able to show me a drawing of the watch as the prototype had yet been delivered.  The finished watch was due to be shown at the Watchmakers Club evening before the Salon QP. I will dedicate a post to this interesting new watch.

This brings me to the start of “Watch Week”; the first event being the Watchmaker’s Club “Night Before” evening in a private club in London on Wednesday.  The Watchmakers Club is a new platform, intended to bring watch collectors and industry experts together via intimate, exclusive events and regular social gatherings. The team behind this unique organisation consists of watchmakers, independent brands, industry influencers and journalists.

It all started in 2012, Andreas Strehler exhibited for the first time at SalonQP in London. On the night before the opening of SalonQP, he invited a few friends and watch enthusiasts to share a drink, talk about watches and the world in general. The idea of The Night Before was born.

On the first evening only a handful of what would become a band of friends showed up at the Lansdowne Club in Mayfair. Over the years, The Night Before became an institution: A gathering of interesting people interested in the world of watches and as the guest list began to grow the Lansdowne Club became too small to host the event.

This year the event was held at The Libary in St Martins Lane. There were two sections, one of which, upstairs, was dedicated the British brands, Fears, Garrick and Pinion. It was a great opportunity firstly to see the Fears Brunswick and Pinions new Atom finally in the metal.

Pinion Atom

The Atom doesn’t disappoint at all. As you can see the design clearly says, Pinion. As we have come to expect, Piers presented a really nice well built watch. Differently to previous Pinions you first notice the slimmer (11mm) steel case, made possible by the use of the Japanese Miyota 9105 automatic movement. Using this movement also enables Pinion to offer a watch at a much lower price point than we are used to from this brand, £790. It will be very interesting to see how this bet goes.

After Fears and Pinion I managed to squeeze through to the table where Garrick’s Simon Michlmayr  was displaying their watches, I was especially keen to see the new S1. This watch is built by master watchmaker, Craig Baird, and finished entirely by hand. This is Garrick’s most complicated timepiece to date, featuring a skeletonised dial and incorporating a power reserve indicator. Only five S1 timepieces will be made per annum.

Sketch of Garrick S1

Unfortunately due lack of space and light I couldn’t get a really decent picture so to give an idea of how the watch is I have taken this picture from Garrick website.

Giles Ellis of Schofield was also present that night along with Simon Cudd, of Schofield + Cudd straps, neither was displaying their products other than those they were wearing. I did manage a dingy peek at Schofield latest watch – the Telemark.

All in all it was a very pleasant evening but being a “school night” I  thought it wise to make my way home.

After “the Night Before” comes the actual night- the first evening of this years Salon QP. The big difference between the two evenings was the lighting.

I managed to say hello again to Simon Michlmayr and to get a shot of the Garrick range.

The Garrick range

I then found the two British stands together firstly, the Fears Departure lounge that was proving very popular with the new Brunswick attracting a great deal of praise. Then next door Schofield overseen by Giles Ellis himself and Simon Cudd with his straps. Again thanks to better light I managed to get some more useful pictures.

Schofield Telemark

Schofield Daymark

After visiting the Brits I went a little of topic and had quick chat with two brands that I have admired for a while Habring from Austria and Switzerlands Czapek both really nice and like everyone super enthusiastic about their work.

On Saturday I visited the Salon again this time with my sons, in the hope of planting the seed of an interest in watches early. They were very impressed by the chocolate offered at the Fears Departure lounge.

Schofield Bronze Beater 2

If you don’t receive Schofields news letter you might have missed their latest announcement – The Bronze Beater 2 !

The Bronze Beater 2

The Bronze Beater B2 now in two finishes, raw and force-patinated. That is the raw at the bottom and the darker one above has been chemically treated to oxidise the case. The B2 will be available in less than two weeks!

The dials are double blue with a gold rim and centre. Luminescent numerals and hour markers with the other print in metallic bronze except the pink B. Hands are brushed bronze with little thorns as counterpoise.

Inside they will use an ETA 2824-2 Swiss auto.

Here are some more of Schofield’s excellent images showing more detail.

The Bronze Beater dial

Caseback

I am really looking forward to seeing these in the “bronze” at the Salon QP

 

Schofield + Cudd

My family will tell you that I pass too much time deciding which strap to use with which watch. My desire for variety has been served well over the last few years by a steady supply of NATO’s in various hues. My favourite however remaining the plain grey.

Since starting this blog I have discovered there are quiet a few people out there sharing this need for variety and distinction. People such as Carl Evans of GasGasBones I wrote about in my last post. It would appear someone has now taken this “interest” to a new higher level.

That man is Simon Cudd. Some of you will know of Simon from his beautiful photos, especially those of watches. Some months ago Simon posted some pictures of a strap for his Schofield watch made out of an old pair of Converse basketball shoes.

Schofield + Cudd Converse Strap credit: Schofield

Very cool indeed. But the story does not stop there. A new venture has just been announced specialising in unusual straps – Schofield + Cudd.   As you will see  from the website https://www.schofieldandcudd.com/ the straps are very bold. But then Schofield watches are not really for shy people.

If you cannot find a strap amongst the numerous on offer, Schofield + Cudd also offer a bespoke service. Take along a piece of your treasured material, an old leather jacket or bag and they will turn it into a unique strap for you,

Then if this is not enough they have also taken another look at an often ignored element of the look of a watch – the buckle. Look at these….

Coloured Buckles !

I just need them to branch out into making straps for other brands.

Schofield Daymark Photo Competition

The winner has been announced. You will be surprised to hear it was not me….

The lucky winner of a Schofield’s latest watch the Daymark was Mr H. and as you will see from the picture below he is a very worthy winner.

The winning picture by Mr. H.

Mr H. clearly read the brief for the competition more closely than me.  He included a “coastal structure”, something missing from my otherwise perfect entry. He also included a lighthouse for which Schofield have a bit of an affinity. Well done.